Tuesday, November 24, 2009

one plus one (well, kinda like half)


new surfing buddy.
straight from Idaho.

oh i have grand plans for this little one.

Monday, November 9, 2009

Red Hot Poker

Vincenzo Ganadu - artist
www.ganaducreations.it

surf art strikes me.
like surf writing, surf lore and history, or simple stories of faded, but not unfathomable rides.
it keeps stoke alive.
when Oregon keeps me at home.
waiting for a gap in the 30 foot swell.

a beautiful peace of art.
a remnant of days to come.

Saturday, November 7, 2009

Waiting

This stomping, peaky, windwipped madness should be over soon.
were on the downward slope.
soon, oh soon, we will return to the throwes of sunny fall evening sessions.
trading places with the sun in the water
stepping out as it settles in
and packing up alone on the beach
and reveling in the wonder of how surfing is like catnip
or a new soul
everytime.

Wednesday, November 4, 2009

got the day off work

head high at high tide.
sunny like evening all day.
fast fun waves,

sometimes i see the guys on the beach
walking
talking
looking cool

and wonder if they dream about surfing.