Saturday, December 26, 2009

Figgy pudding


Photo: M. mekenas

not surfing today.
driving.
not letting frigid wet fingers sock the air out of my suit.
twisting my thumbs in limbo, talking, but mostly just sitting.
not looking back at the beach, basking in the emptiness of it all.
eating figgy pudding......whatever the hell that is.

damn thing looks like fun.

Sunday, December 13, 2009

better late than never



Loner surf.
nice as always.
peaky and waist high.
a good call on the 9-6 today.

an hour and a half late for dinner with dad.
crap............
but, he understands.
and smiles a bit when i tell him how nice it was in the water.

Saturday, December 12, 2009

5 months ago


Photo: Mark Mekenas.

Might as well have been early august.
sunny morning giving that water the elusive azure tint only found on the finest days.
wind almost non-existent.
handfull of moderate surfers in the water.

plus a guy i call bob.

ive never spoken to bob, though we always exchange pleasantries in the water.
a nod is suffice most occasions.
rarely, a verbal grunt escapes one of us
he surfs his fire wire very well.

were usually in the water at the same times.
and i find it a bit surreal that we have never spoken.
there seems to be some sort of simple understanding that we have nothing to say.
we, i guess, are simply here to ride.
to enjoy the less crowded days.

and for some reason i respect bob.
for not talking to me.
and knowing i dont want to talk either.

Thursday, December 3, 2009

Literal Leash



Photo: Mark Mekenas
http://www.cannonbeachsurf.com/index.php


one part marine rope.
one part black dog leash.
series of concentric knotted loops around the ankle to prevent cinching.

life of this product: about three good wipeouts and one flying bailout.

yes....i forgot my leash.
just glad i can think outside the box.

other than that.
another day in Oregon of windless, sunny, shoulder high surf.

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

The Spoils of Winter


http://www.martinclarke-art.com/

the parking lot empty.
save the hiker
and the pickup of the other guy.

walk and talk.
mindless chatter about Hawaii, cold water and the like.
but otherwise taciturn and solemn.
stepping in admiration of how a tree can gather such an enormous amount of moss.

first view of the water revealed an empty sight.
save shifty windless waves.

no classes.
no "sorry i got in the way "bro""
no howling dogs.
no leathery middle aged women languid in the sand.

the day left us temperate.
and content.
sated on empty lefts and rights