neu-v

ah hell.
next l be a flat back twin.
diamond tail for now though eh.
Tor...........?

whiteout

1920-ish single pane window.
location: shower


landlocked for 2 days.
leaves me reeling about some of the better days last week.
sunny hollow gorgeous lefts. i forgot i was in Oregon for about 30 min when it all shaped up.

back to work for 4 days.
feeling a bit closed off.
need some surf release.

this is all i could come up with.

Movement

finished the first board.
rode it thursday.
paddles great and pulls in like a parking spot.

a great day on a hand shaped board.
and small, fun, sunny waves didnt detract either.

here is the finished product.
and the next one.

Critical fun. Critical Sliders

Critical Sliders from Nathan Oldfield on Vimeo.

C'mon summer.
youre so close.

no more death dives.

just sunny, medium waves with a few friends.

C'mon summer

Wayward home

Vincenzo Ganadu - artist
www.ganaducreations.it


30 minutes.
all to myself.
alone in the water
literal crack of dawn.

sat, surfed, walked.
up, up, then slightly back.
a balance of toes
and fingers drug in pendulous water.

alone.

no city.
no ex.
no friend who is "worried about me."
no thankless job.

crisp spring water.
sun pushing above a cold forest.
9'6'' platform for losing myself under me.

gone.

Frustration

Gotten: Sun on my face.
a few good lip inspired thrashings
a tired dog.

Not Gotten: anything the resembled a decent ride.

sunny though. cant complain about that

....and other expletives

Photo: M mekenas

dad called me at 6:30.
"hey....what are you doing?"
"nothing" i replied "taking the wax off an old board"
i had been spending the morning taming the dogs and screwing around with surf stuff.

dad- " im driving south on 101. im up north. ive never seen the surf so clean. are you going?"
"not sure" i replied. "i think lindsay needs the car today, an i have to work tonight"

dad spent a good deal of the 60's and 70's surfing here. all along the north coast.
we spend a good deal of time talking about secret spots along the coast. hike in's and repel in's.
mormon summer camps
he usually takes some goading to get into this topic.
i think he misses it dearly.

so for him to call me, stoked to the hilt should have been an indicator.
another one of those times i should have listened to my dad.

made a few frantic calls.
marty was already packed up and on the way.
spencer had to work.
andrew was sliding around on frozen water somewhere.
jake.....in Uganda.

the day continued on. bought a new planer. did some sanding. all the while trying to ignore the pull.
the thing whispering in your ear "just go" "go and get some. its right out there. churning. without you." "everyone is out there, having fun without you."

i never got out.
lindsay slept all day. (i should have known)
i got called off my night shift.

im left kicking myself today.
and the take home lesson:
J. you just gotta be selfish sometimes.

Out of water

been out of the water for almost 2 weeks now.
50 mph winds
freak snow storms (though had the surf been good, id a been all about it)
christmas, new years, work, blah, blah, blah

finding other ways to keep the surf spirits keen
and sated
for a while at least.